Dear friends

Harmonica now has a web page.  Please take a look at www.techco.ab.ca/harmonica (and also search "Harmonica sailing" or something similar on your favourite search engine to get this page known).

Otherwise there will be no sailing stories in this letter.  Jan & Dave are back in Turkey, but travelling inland before returning to Harmonica.   We left her stern-tied to the floating dock at Marti Marina with 3 lines aft, and 3 lines forward: two of the marina's lines anchored to the bottom, and one bow line to the next dock!  We heard that there can be strong winds in the valley, but Harmonica should be safe.  We left our 2 mainsails with Yenel Sailmakers in Marmaris for minor repairs, alterations & cleaning.  Then we took the overnight bus to Istanbul.

The 'Lonely Planet Guide' says that arriving at dawn by ferry across the entrance to the Bosphorus is supposed to be the ideal way to enter Istanbul, and after a warm greasy breakfast, we agreed.  You see Topkapi Palace, Agia Sofia, and the Blue Mosque, besides a sky-line filled with minarets.  We found a cheap hotel south of the Grand Bazzar and spent 3 days exploring (and shopping).  It is now a city of past glories, but it was a major economic & cultural centre until 150 years ago, and we saw many impressive sights.  Again the Turks were all friendly & helpful.  The crowds were thinned by the seasonal rain cooled by occasional sleet.

Thence we flew to England and caught up with family there (including a great pub lunch for 14 with Jan's family) before heading back for Christmas in Calgary.  Since Canada 3000 went bankrupt, we had to change to Air Canada at more than twice the price (remember promises that prices would not increase after A.C. got a monopoly on Canadian international flights!)  After 18 months away, we had a lovely Christmas at the cabin with the boys, but decided that we were unlikely to need a big house again, & it was time to sell the family home.  The cruising life suits us, and we have enjoyed living on board.  Mark & Neil are both at university, & we are unlikely to come back under one roof again for more than holidays.  Having made this decision, neither of us had lasting regrets.  Our timing happened to be excellent: Having asked Paule Leemans to help to sell the house for us, and John Wilson to paint some of the shabbier parts (both friends from the Lake Louise ski patrol) we started having such a flood of friends of neighbours asking to look that sold before it ever got listed.  Sorry Paule, but thank you.  PLEASE, no more mail to Cayuga Drive.

It was great fun visiting back in Calgary, and seeing Mark in his condominium in Victoria.  Friends Tim & Susan astounded us by inviting us to look at a sister-ship to Harmonica which was for sale near Victoria, then buying the similar boat next door.  Fair winds guys, we look forward to Falcon joining us somewhere around the oceans.

Now back in Turkey, but not on board.  We are in a hotel in Avanos, Cappadocia, where people have built underground homes in the volcanic tuff for at least 2,000 years, and some of the earliest christian churches were built.  This time, we changed tactics and did not head for the cheapest hotel: our hosts are as friendly as ever and the decor is far superior, but the heating technology is still poor!  There is snow outside this morning.

Jan & Dave