7 Sept 2005
21 12S 159 47W

Following a 5 day passage from Bora Bora with winds from every direction blowing from 5 to 35 knots, we arrived in the small, busy Avatiu Harbour on Rarotonga. We anchored and stern tied in the last available spot on the harbour wall with 5 other sail boats. The rest of the space was reserved for larger shipping and fishing boats. We soon found the best places for buying fish and chips and good ice cream.

Rarotonga is the major island and population centre of the Cook islands. The language spoken is Cook Island Maori with English as a second language spoken by virtually everyone. The island is mountainous and covered in lush vegetation surrounded by a protective reef with shallow lagoon and sandy beaches.

While in the harbour we were lucky enough to see the tall ship "Picton Castle" arrive under full sail and then, using engines, manoeuvre very skillfully into the remaining space on the dock beside us. This 3 masted square-rigger is registered in the Cook islands but her home port is Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. She sails round the world as a training ship every 2 years with a crew of 59....there were plenty of Canadians aboard.

A good bus service runs round the island and with a combination of bike and bus (we left one bike saddle behind when packing up on a previous stop) we rode/bussed round the island stopping on the South side for some excellent snorkeling in the lagoon. Dave hiked back across the island without incidence having been advised that it was not safe to do the walk South to North for fear of getting lost.

A crew of "professional surfers" was taking photos off the SW corner of the island where the breakers curve round onto the smooth waters of the lee side.

We hiked up through wet, green, terraces of Taro, a root vegetable that replaces potatoes for the islanders. The roots and leaves can both be eaten, the leaves tasting rather like spinach. We reached the top, 588m, of the third highest peak, to find a large crater filled with low trees, lush foliage, and flowers. We had splendid views to the North and South of the island. The steeper parts had fixed ropes up the rock faces which made climbing much easier. Part of the trail followed a very narrow steep sided ridge. Rain showers can be heavy and the mud slippery. The only people we saw high up were a local family having a picnic lunch on the way to the top - the Dad was trying to encourage his 3 children to the top while Mum provided food, but they never made it.

We got to know our cruising neighbours while in the harbour. Lista Light, a wooden, Norwegian fishing boat converted into a cruising boat with Jay, and her daughter and son-in-law on board. Dolittle, with Nick from New Zealand and his girlfriend Annarieke from Holland. Cas and Jack, two crew members, were in the process of moving from Dolittle to Lista Light to make room for relatives visiting Nick and Anna. Tournesol, with Pam and Scott aboard. Both legally blind and sailing round the world on their own (look for the article in Sail Magazine ?November 2005).

The Cook islands were hit by 5 cyclones earlier this year. The worst one with 42ft waves did a lot of damage. One restaurant that has rebuilt is using modules. They can now pick up and move the kitchen area if really bad weather hits again. Many of the older, large buildings had a colonial air about them and looked old and faded.

Sunday, Janet walked to church accepting a ride on the back of a motor bike half way there. The old white coral built church was full. The regular attendees were men dressed in white suits and the women wearing white or beige dresses with elaborate, wide brimmed, straw hats. Once again the singing in unison was moving. A large screen showed the words, mainly Maori, so one could join in the singing.

People were friendly and helpful. Dave was able to find a machine shop with a friendly fellow who made a shim and ground a a little off a bronze casting allowing us to use the right chain wheel on our new anchor windlass.

After a week in Rarotonga we sadly left on our next passage for the island of Niue.

Fond wishes from Jan, Dave & Harmonica